a freelance journal

Composure

Steve Still in no hurry and all day to get there.

Photo: A. Tolhurst

This is Steve Still, longtime Wrightsville Beach charger and reason for the professionalism of the Ocean Rescue Squad on the Island today.  Steve, “the notes”, Ryan Tolhurst and a Kauai neighbor drove through heavily flooded roads and all night only to sleep in the truck outside Rodanthe.  After little luck finding a sandbar, and badly needing a rinse (the smell of four grown men sleeping in the cab of a pick up is unique) we skipped the more popular S Turns and instead opted for that spot of everyone’s youth, the lighthouse.  Every east coaster has taken the pilgrimage to the right coast mecca.  More often than not the trip is rewarded as was the case here.  The swell had more wrap to it so was not as hollow as other places but had all the size ad a 1/3 of the crowd and lenses.

This photo was shot from just under 1st jetty on an exposed sandbar.  The right that works back towards the inside was on and the classic left doing it’s thing (check out the gallery below for other pics from the same trip).  A simple 200mm lens was all that was needed to show off Steve’s easy grace, style and comfort in sizeable surf.  In fact, the bigger it gets, the better the big man surfs.

One response

  1. Pingback: Wall of Fame « Notes from the North End

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