a freelance journal

Surfing. Better than the mall.

And, perhaps, it is even better than the merry-go-round.  After all that thing gives a serious queasy feeling if forced to ride on the top level and, what is more, you deserve it for being in the mall this close to Christmas.  So any time you are able to steal in the water is cherished indeed.  As evidenced by the recent post count, there has been little surf to speak of.  What has been around has been fun, but has needed a little luck, a little groveling for the time, and a little more rubber.  The last swell or two right before Thanksgiving was done in water hovering right around 60 degrees.  If the sun was right or the wind quiet then you could steal an hour or two without the booties.  Now, at 53 degrees, the heavy rubber comes out and the boots are dug out of their storage spot and have begun their stink anew.

What follows is a random collection of shots taken in the last few swells.  Apologies for the shaky focus as most of them are snapped at the very same time as the photographer is racing to jump into a full suit of rubber in the anxiety created by a small window of daylight, wind and responsibilities begged off.  In short, chaotic and childish at best.  In these swells we had barrels, noseriding, and fun.  It also saw the end of long, trusted soldier.  Rest in peace trusted Bill Stewart.  Thy time was cherished.

The down time in between has been spent chasing trout and finally putting together the newest Wall of Fame page featuring Jeremy Robinson of CB Surf Shop.  Be sure to check it out.  And, in the spirit of bragging on solid surfing and good guys, Bo Raynor was recently featured in Transworld Surf Magazine.  It was only yesterday where he lumbered after his two brothers (exceptionally talented surfers and nice young men in their own right) and was not much more than 2 feet or more of runny nose.  While little Bo-bo may not remember, “the notes” does and it is brought to the attention of you readers because before long it may be the only way left to keep that little man in check.  “the notes” sure won’t be doing it from the water.  Like all the Raynor boys, Bo is humble, kind, genuine and talented.  He and his brothers are on the surf any time and any place it’s good.  It shows.  A recent string of top places and contest wins as well as an ESA All-Star selection earned Bo a spot with Billabong and he isn’t looking back.  Bo and his brothers are beginning to follow the trail made by their father.  They exude the simple life of being a surfer and loving the gift it is.  They are good surfers and good men.  Here at “the notes” we have nothing but love for Bo and cherish watching him go after his dreams in and out of the water.  Good on ya Bo.

Bo Raynor. The Cove at Fort Fisher. Photo: Robbie Johnson of Surf Carolina Magazine


One response

  1. Mom

    I don’t like the mall either but I can’t surf. Is it too late to learn?

    December 14, 2010 at 5:16 pm

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