Take What You Get
It’s the rule for surf here. We know it. We joke about it. We dare the jinx and try to ignore the hype because in the end we just take what we can get. Apparently some serious karmic harm has been perpetrated. Could it have been the open mocking of the fickle sea on forecast websites or maybe it is the close friend’s new board? Even more maddening is that she will never tell but continue to hold it over our collective heads. So, when the last little 11 second wave period rolled in under a harsh WSW wind, the notes got in for a surf with Jeremy Robinson (stay tuned for his addition to the Wall of Fame) and Drake Courie at a shifty spot, alluring from shore and fun to be wet but-eh….take what you get.